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iJourneys

John Gough Photography

Best Camera for Street Photography 2022

by John Gough

Best Camera for Street Photography
A Town in Lockdown / John Gough

Which is the best camera for street photography 2022?

I have been using my mirrorless Canon EOS R with a 35mm lens for street photography for a couple of years. It is quite discreet and certainly smaller than most DSLRs. However, I want a camera that is even less intrusive to document this phase in our lives of lockdowns and pandemics.

These notes document my personal search for the best street camera available now. Hopefully, they will be of value to other street photographers

What Type of Camera for Street Photography 2022

To start I am dismissing DSLR’s because they are too big and bulky. They also make you look like a professional photographer. Those people who notice you wonder if you are from the press, or maybe you are someone in authority. You are not going to fade into the background with a camera and lens that is worth thousands of pounds.

I don’t want a big camera but I don’t want a very small camera. So small that the settings are fiddly to find. Again this just draws attention to yourself.

There is a lot of discussion as to whether a telephoto lens works in street photography. My view would be definitely not. If you are using a long lens to photograph people in an urban setting you are a sniper not a street photographer.

Furthermore, a telephoto means that it takes longer to compose the shot and then it’s gone. Much better to use a wide angle lens and then crop during post. That means a big sensor! It also means preferably a full frame sensor to take advantage of the increased dynamic range required to draw out detail especially in low light.

A tilting LCD screen is also useful, but preferably it is handy to learn how to shoot without looking through the viewfinder or down at the screen. Another reason for cropping in post.

Wide angle lenses also add so much more emotion and drama as shown in the image above. This picture was taken during the Covid lockdown in the UK, close up with a 35mm lens.

Phone cameras are ideal for street work, but the small 12MP sensor restricts how the image can be cropped. I also want the control of RAW. Especially when converting an image to monochrome.

Conclusion

The camera should be small and unobtrusive but not too small. It should have a big full frame sensor and a fixed prime 35 or 28mm lens.

Which Cameras Are in the Frame for Street Photography

It is surprising that there are only three cameras

Leica Q2

Street Photography Camera
Leica Q2 Street Photography Camera Choice

Obviously, Leica is in the frame. It has been the street camera of choice since Cartier Bresson and is the camera chosen by the master street photographer Joel Meyerowitz

The Leica Q2 is a compact camera with a fixed 28mm lens and a whopping 47.3 MP full-frame sensor. The full spec’ is here.

In a review, the DPReview gave the camera a gold award.

The Leica Q2 is nearly as competent as a fixed-lens digital camera can be. It’s built very well, it handles very well, it’s capable of excellent image quality and it’s a joy to use. We wish Leica would address the lackluster JPEGs, but the Raw files are excellent. It all comes at a price, of course, but the Q2 really is a wonderfully engaging photographic tool that will appeal to photographers of all kinds.

DPReview

However, the Leica Q is priced at an amount that I just could not justify: £4500 / $5695. I also feel that I would be being a tiny bit showy offy, buying a camera with that red dot.


Fujifilm X100V

The Fujifilm X100V is a real contender for Best Camera for Street Photography. If you hold the camera in your hands it just has the feel of real quality.

It is quite heavy. All the vintage looking dials are sturdy and beautifully machined. The grip is sure and secure without being oversized, and you feel that you could easily spend several hours walking the streets with this camera.

This is the spec’ for the Fujifilm X100V:

26.1 МР Ѕеnѕоr
Х-Тrаnѕ СМОЅ APS-C sensor
Fіхеd 23mm lеnѕ (35mm еquіvаlеnt)
Аdvаnсеd Нуbrіd Vіеwfіndеr (ОVF & ЕVF)
Тwо-wау 3″ tіltіng LСD tоuсh ѕсrееn
Vеrѕаtіlе аnd соmрасt
17 Сlаѕѕіс Fuјіfіlm fіlm ѕіmulаtіоn mоdеѕ
Вluеtооth аnd Wі-Fі соnnесtіvіtу

Price: £1299 / $1399

DPReview also award this camera gold.

The X100V is an engaging, well-built camera that produces beautiful images, has best-in-class video, excellent autofocus and optional weather-sealing. Meaningful updates like a tilting touchscreen, updated viewfinder and redesigned lens have us largely looking past its imperfections. Assuming you like the 35mm-equivalent focal length, it makes a strong case as a photographer’s carry-everywhere compact that’s good for all kinds of photography.

DPReview

The APS-C sensor does not fit the ideal profile, but reviewers assure us of beautiful RAW images

This may be unfair but there are still doubts about whether Fujifilm RAW files can be processed successfully in Lightroom and Photoshop. I have come up against this problem before albeit on older Fujifilm cameras.

Fujifilm camera owners recommend that RAW files are processed in Capture 1 but you may not want to change your workflow.


Ricoh GRIII

Street Camera
Ricoh GRIII

This camera has cult status. It is small, it does not have a viewfinder, but it has a zen like quality and is built for street photography. There is even a street photography version of the camera.

There is a front rubberised grip and the magnesium body feels sturdy and purposeful. The matt black look is very discreet.

There is autofocus but to make focussing even more instant for street photographers there is a version of zone focusing. This allows you to pre-set a focusing distance to which the camera automatically ‘snaps’ at a full shutter button press. It can also be set up to work at the touch of the rear screen.

Recently Ricoh have launched the GRIIIx which has a 40mm lens. This is better for street portraits whilst the 28mm remains better for urban scenes

This is the spec for the Ricoh GRIII

  • 8.3mm f2.8 lеnѕ (28mm іn thе 35mm fоrmаt)
  • APS-C 24.24 МP Ѕеnѕоr
  • Ніgh-ѕрееd аutоfосuѕ ореrаtіоn uѕіng а hуbrіd АF ѕуѕtеm
  • 3-Ахіѕ shаkе rеduсtіоn sуѕtеm
  • Соmрасt аnd ruggеd dеѕіgn. Ѕuреrb іmаgе quаlіtу аnd роrtаbіlіtу
  • Fast ѕtаrt-uр tіmе оf аррrох. 0.8 ѕесѕ
  • 3.0″ LСD mоnіtоr wіth quick tоuсh-ѕсrееn ореrаtіоn
  • Price £799 / $936

DPReview gave this camera a silver award.

If you shoot street, documentary, or just want a genuinely pocketable travel camera with excellent image quality, and if you can afford the admission price, just buy one!

Fred Abery Petapixel

The downsides are no viewfinder, no flippy screen and the battery life is only around 200 shots.

However, it is the minimal aesthetic and the quality of the images that make this camera so special. Special enough to have a fanatical following including the renown Japanese photographer Daido Moriyama and German freelance photographer Samuel Lintaro Hopf, who has used Ricoh since 2013.

Then there are the GRists. Go over to their community webpage and suck up the vibes, and dont tell me you dont want one.


The Best Street Camera for 2022

So where does that leave us with fixed lens compact cameras which are so right for street photography?

Well, for most camera makers their attention is elsewhere, concentrating on mirrorless cameras. Compact cameras have largely been replaced by mobile phones. The compact cameras that remain are aimed at the travel market with catch-all mega zoom lenses.

So well done to Leica, Fujifilm and Ricoh who have stuck with the tradition of the street camera. This stretches back to the 1930s and Brassai, Cartier-Bresson, and Helen Levitt and now thanks to them, proudly continues into 2022.

Filed Under: Equipment, Fujifilm, Gear, Journey, Street Photography Tagged With: street photography

Fujifilm X-H1 Review of Reviews

by John Gough

Fujifilm X-H1

Fujifilm X-H1

Fujifilm X-H1 is the H for hype or does this camera live up to its billing? We trawl the reviews and forums to try and get a balanced view on the Fujifilm X-H1 as a stills camera.

Already a fracas has broken out. If you dare to criticise a Fujifilm camera then be prepared for a kickback. Their users are the most loyal in the world. However,  YouTube photography supremo, Tony Northrop challenged the Fuji orthodoxy by claiming that the full frame sensor on the Sony a7III had two times the image quality of the Fujifilm X-H1 sensor. We know what he meant but……

However, Northrop hit back:

So what is the point? Well, it reflects a disappointment that this camera was probably not the camera Fuji enthusiasts were dreaming of. Why? Let’s look at the camera in more detail.

Fujifilm X-H1 Specification

  • 24.3-million-pixel X-Trans APS-C CMOS III sensor
  • 5 axis in-body image stabilization: IBIS
  • 3in, 1.04m-dot tilt screen
  • Tiltable touch sensitive LCD
  • ISO 200-12,800 (expandable to ISO 100-51,200)
  • Continuous shooting up to 14fps
  • Two card slots
  • 673g body only, including battery and memory card. 166g heavier than the XT2
  • 310 shot NP-W126S Li-ion battery
  • Wi-Fi with Bluetooth
  • Optional VPB-XH1 battery grip
  • 139.8×97.3×85.5mm (WxHxD)
  • 25% tougher weather-resistant body
  • Silent electronic shutter with a maximum speed of 1/32,000 sec,
  • 91 auto-focus points (expandable to 325)
  • A sub LCD monitor on the top plate
  • 4K capture at up to 200 Mbps

Fujifilm X-H1: DPReview Review

The DPReview review awards the camera a sliver award, because the camera although worthy does not excel in any respect:

  • The size and weight of the camera has been increased over the XT2 because of the addition of IBIS and the thermal cooling required for long bursts of 4K video
  • The settings for stills and video can remain separate, enabling easy swapping between modes.
  • There is a dynamic range priority setting which can assist in drawing detail out of shadows.
  • The magnesium alloy body is 25% thicker and the surface hardness has been increased to improve durability.
  • The top plate LCD panel stays on even when the camera is switched off and can be configured to only show vital information.
  • The weather sealing has been improved and the camera can function at -10C.
  • The 310 shot battery should last half a day of dedicated photography
  • Need to fine tune the AF behaviour to get sharp results
  • Face detection performance is good but variable depending on the lens.
  • Low light AF is said to be improved
  • AF works best in the phase detection area at the centre of the sensor
  • The 5x IBIS is not consistent across all lenses. Expect about 2x with wide angle lenses and 3,3 with telephoto.
  • An excellent JPEG engine with excellent creative colour modes
  • Slight ‘glitching’ in fine colour detail in RAW but overall low noise levels are low and detail acceptable.
  • The touchscreen can be slow to respond

 I’m not sure the number and style of control points necessarily reflects the needs of the user interface, now it’s trying to accommodate both stills and video

the X-H1 [is] up against some pretty fierce competition: Sony, for example, offers the broadly comparable a6500 for less money or the impressive-looking full-frame a7 III for only a little more.

Fujifilm X-H1: Cameralabs

Cameralabs provide one of the most detailed reviews available, here are the bits I found interesting:

  • Could be described as an XT2 with IBIS, a touchscreen, bigger grip, better video and Bluetooth
  • One of the heftiest mirrorless cameras
  • It is stronger mare scratch resistant and has 94 points of weather sealing
  • The display remains active when the camera is switched off, indicating at a glance the shots and battery life remaining.
  • Some glasses wearers prefer the viewfinder to the XT2
  • It is possible to record stills to both cards but not video
  • The X-Trans III sensor is the same as in the XT2 and is now two years old.
  • Vertical Power Booster (VPB X-H1) makes room for three batteries but adds to cost and bulk.
  • Unstabilised lenses become usable due to the IBIS. Plus the IBIS make in camera composition easier with telescopic and other lenses.
  • The phase detect and contrast based autofocus systems are the same as the XT2 and therefore perform similarly. However, it has been tweaked to work better in low light.
  • Face detection and eye detection can be erratic

I say it in every Fujifilm review, but still believe they have the best colour science in the industry.

I understand Fujifilm’s eagerness to launch their first body with built-in stabilisation, but feel the X-H1’s size, price and position would have been more comfortable with a new sensor and battery.

Fujifilm X-H1: Kai W

If you want to see the weather sealing qualities check this out:

 

Fujifilm X-H1: Fstoppers

Usman Daywood in the Fstoppers review calls this a disappointing release from Fujifilm.

  • Comments online wonder where this product fits and when there will be a replacement for the XT2
  • Major changes over XT2 re stills photography are an information top plate, IBIS and touchscreen

The Fujifilm X-H1 is a disappointing and confusing release from the company which is very unlike them. This feels rushed and completely unnecessary, and it would have been much better to simply wait and release a proper update the X-T2. 

 

Fujifilm X-H1: Digital Camera Weekly

A very positive review from Digital Camera Weekly

  • The light trigger shutter takes getting used to. Very little pressure is needed.
  • The shutter is very quiet due to a clever shock damping on the mechanical focal plane shutter
  • The deep grip makes the camera easy to hold especially with larger lenses
  • The IBIS enables sharp images to be taken handheld at 1/8 sec at 55mm.
  • The expanded dynamic range feature lifts the base ISO level by 1-2EV.
  • Fujifilm includes lens corrections into the RAW files as well as JPEG processing.

the X-H1 makes a lot of sense, especially for those who have already invested in the X-mount system or are swayed by its design, image quality and lenses. 

Fujifilm X-H1: Photography Blog

Another positive review from Photography Blog

  • The lens mount is reinforced to be more damage resistant.
  • It is very convenient to be able to check the camera’s key settings with a quick glance at the top LCD
  • It is possible to change the focus point whilst holding the camera up to your eye by dragging your thumb across the touchscreen.

While the new Fujifilm X-H1 is the best-specced, best-performing X-series camera to date, curiously we feel that it doesn’t quite have the widest appeal, both within the Fujifilm eco-system and the camera market as a whole.

So what Fujifilm have mostly added, they’ve perhaps also taken a little away, with the addition of IBIS, bigger handgrip and top LCD screen making the X-H1 the largest X-series APS-C camera to date.

it’s not the only camera that’s being directly challenged by the aggressive pricing of the A7 III, but when the APS-C sensor X-H1 is physically bigger than the full-frame sensor A7 III at the same price-point (if you factor in the VPB-XH1), Sony seem to have the edge, at the very least in marketing terms.

Fujifilm X-H1: Conclusion

When I first handled the X-H1 I was surprised at how bulky it was. I was disappointed that the retro feel of Fujifilm cameras had been jettisoned. However, it may just be a function of progress as mirrorless cameras take on more features and technology. However, I wonder whether Fujifilm had an inkling that Sony was about to release a ball buster in the Sony A7III, and rushed to release the X-H1 without properly resolving battery and other issues.

Where to Buy

I buy my equipment from Wex because I have found they offer great customer service.

 

 

Filed Under: Cameras, Fujifilm, Gear, Journey, Mirrorless Tagged With: Fuji Cameras

Fujifilm X-Trans Sensor Problems

by John Gough

I just wanted to add to the debate about the Fujifilm X-Trans sensor which is the APSC sensor used in Fujifilm X series cameras like the XT2, XT20 and XPro2.

The debate which rages on countless forums, centres around the artefacts that can be found on RAW files after they have been processed in Lightroom. Photographers claim that there can be worm like backgrounds and smeary images on high ISO images. Other Fuji users claim never to have come across this problem. Well I did.

Examples of X-Trans Sensor Problems

Here are a couple of examples shown at high magnification taken on a Fuji XT20 at just ISO640.

X-Trans

X-Trans Sensor Worms

 

X-Trans

X-Trans Smears

Although the sensor is claimed to be 24 MP, and that size of sensor should be able to create up to a c’3′ x 2′ print. I would not like to rely on it if details like these were  evident. Therefore creating fine art prints with this camera is not going to be possible.

The Technicalities: Fuji X-Trans Sensor

To understand the technicalities of why this is. Then refer to this excellent article.

X-Trans: The Promise and the Problem

 

Conclusion

The answer to the problem many people argue in forums is not to process Fujifim X-Trans images in Lightroom, users suggest instead to use  Capture One. Surely however, there is something seriously wrong when one of the world’s most popular cameras, can not use the world’s most popular processing engine and workflow.

 

Where to Buy Your Equipment

I buy my equipment from Wex because of their exceptional customer service. I once returned a camera after 30 days, and the next day they called to return my money to my account. Their prices are always competitive and they offer good prices on the trade in of your used gear

 

Filed Under: Fujifilm, Gear, Lightroom Tagged With: Fuji Cameras

Fujifilm XT20 Blurry and Out of Focus Shots

by John Gough

I bought my Fujifilm XT20 a week or so ago, and I spent a couple of days testing, to see how I could work with it. I bought the Fuji XT20 as a small inconspicuous street camera, which meant that it had to focus fast to capture fleeting moments.  As can be seen the testing was not successful, something was wrong. About 30% of my images turned out this way. I had setup the camera according to the manual and online videos here. I had to assume either the lens or the camera were at fault, and got ready to return the camera to Wex Photographic. However because it is a bit of a drive to Norwich, I decided to do some research first. What I uncovered was that this issue is not uncommon with the X cameras, and the Fujifilm 18-55 lens. The forums were full of woe. How was it that all the reviewers thought this camera was brilliant, but lots of new users thought it was crap? The key was that the blurry pictures were usually from new users, which could mean that my XT20 setup was at fault. I spent a day researching and gradually changed the setup. The next day this picture was shot quickly from across the street. I was pleased to discover that it was sharp. I shot over 400 shots that day and nearly all were successful. How was it done?

My Notes on the Fujifilm XT20 Setup to Achieve Sharp Images.

These are my notes / instructions to myself, on the setup I have used to stop getting blurry images with the XT20:

Shoot Aperture Priority

This may seem counter intuitive, why not shoot shutter priority and select a high shutter speed that will ensure that there will be no motion blur? Shutter priority leaves control of the aperture to the camera. I lose creative control. I may want to blur the background with wide aperture. I may want to ensure there is sufficient depth of field so that all the people in a group are in focus. I may want to focus on a feature in a landscape. So long as I keep an eye on the shutter speed in the viewfinder, I should be able to control both.

AF-S

Set Focus Mode to single shots i.e. AF-S using the dial on the front of the camera. P78 in the manual. This will ensure that the camera will refocus before taking the next image when the shutter is pressed half way. NB S on the dial on the right of the camera. However if the subject is moving then switch to continuous. AF-C and CL or CH on the dial on the right of the camera.

Set High Enough ISO

I don’t trust the Fuji auto ISO to move up as the scene demands. Try it! So I set the ISO at around 640 to ensure that there is flexibility in aperture and shutter speed. Most cameras today can handle higher ISOs. Better a slightly grainy image, which can be recovered in post production, than a blurry one. Q>ISO>rear command dial.

Single Point AF Mode

There are three selectable Focus Modes. Zone and Wide Tracking are designed for moving objects, Single Point AF will however provide pin point control of the focus point if the subject is static. Menu/OK>AFMF>AF Mode>Single Point.

Select the Smallest Size Focus Point

The smaller the focus point the more accurately the camera can be shown exactly what to focus on. Menu/OK>AFMF>AF Mode>Single Point. Use the rear command wheel to select the smallest size a single sensor. P83 in the manual.

Control the Focus Point

Once the smallest focus point is selected, then to quickly move the focus point around the EVF (Electronic View Finder) or screen set the selector buttons around the Menu/OK button to move the focus point. Note that pressing the DISPBACK button will always return the focus point to the centre.  Menu/OK>Wrench>Selector Button Settings>Focus Area

Shutter AF On

To ensure you get what you see. Set the XT20 to lock the focus when the shutter is pressed half way. Menu/OK>Wrench>Selector Button Settings>Shutter AF>On

High Performance On

There is a power management setting that speeds up the auto focus, but it does drain the battery a little faster. However buy some spare batteries and go for sharper images. Menu/OK>Wrench>Power Management>Performance>High Performance.

Facial Recognition Off

Facial recognition is great for just that e.g. photographing the family in the back garden. However don’t leave it switched on or the auto focus will be hunting for faces in all scenes, and may override the chosen focus point. Menu/OK>AFMF>Face/Eye Detection Setting>Off.

AF+MF Off

AF+MF enables the manual focus (MF) to be used when the auto focus (AF) is being used. Just touching the MF dial accidentally while using the zoom could throw out the focus. .  NB if AF+MF is switched on the camera will shoot in Release Priority (see below) even if Focus Priority is on. Menu/OK>AFMF>AF+MF>Off

Focus Priority On

Release / Focus Priority:  This simple setting could be the cause of many out of focus images. Release prioritises the shutter over focusing. So the shutter can fire before focus is achieved. Focus priority ensures that focus is achieved before the camera will fire.  Menu/OK>AFMF>Release/Focus Priority>AF-S Priority Selection>Focus

IS Mode Shooting Only

As a default the image stabilisation is set to continuous which is good for movies, but can induce some shake on single images. Set to Shooting Only and the OIS is only engaged when the shutter is pressed half way. Menu/OK>Shooting Setting>IS Mode>Shooting Only

AF Beep On

The focus square will turn green if focus is achieved, but it is very useful to have additional confirmation of focus lock.  Menu/OK>Wrench>Sound Set-up>AF Beep Volume>Three on options

Check Focus On

If Focus Check is on, then pressing the rear command dial zooms the display to the focus point to confirm focus. A useful feature if the scene is busy. Menu/OK>AFMF>Focus Check>On

Pre-AF Off

With Pre AF on,  focusing will continue even if the shutter is pressed half way. To be in control of auto focus then Menu/OK>AFMF>Pre-AF>Off

OIS On

Check that the OIS image stabilisation is switched on.

Conclusion

Modern cameras are brilliant because they can be configured to cover a multitude of situations. This is my setup to get sharp images of people in the street. If you are into sport or wildlife photography your setup will be different, but be assured this is a good basic setup that will help you and the Fujifilm XT20 deliver sharp images. Try it, I hope it works for you.

Where I Buy

I buy my equipment from Wex because of their exceptional customer service. I once returned a camera after 30 days, and the next day they called to return my money to my account. Their prices are always competitive and they offer good prices on the trade in of your used gear

Camera Wrist Strap

I have avoided dropping my camera so many times using a simple inexpensive wrist strap like this one. Cameras and expensive lenses do not bounce! UK USA

Filed Under: Fujifilm, Gear Tagged With: Fuji, Fuji Cameras

Fujifilm XT20 Setup

by John Gough

How to Setup the Fuji XT20

Getting a new camera can be daunting. I could not get my Fuji XT20 to work the way I wanted it at first because it was switched to Auto instead of a dot! I spent about an hour figuring out how to setup aperture priority which is the usual way I shoot.

There are some really useful videos on YouTube on how to setup the camera: Firstly Tony and Chelsea Northrop who seem to have a fantastic home and brilliant life travelling the world doing photography videos. They are worth watching though if you have not caught up with them yet. This video is an overview which is useful if you have just taken the camera out of the box:

 

 

Fuji Guys is a great channel for all things Fujifilm, this video is particularly useful as it goes into detail re the menu options, which is not easy to find in the manual.

 

 

Then there is Omar Gozalez who shoots mainly Canon (as do I), but is into the Fujifilm XT20 because it is small and fun to shoot with (as I am).

 

 

My Setup for Fuji XT20

These are my notes about the basic setup:

    • I may just shoot in P, ie Program mode most of the time as it is possible to adjust the aperture and shutter speed combinations using the rear command wheel, which is really useful.
    • The screen seemed too cluttered, so I have switched a lot of the icons off. This is done via Menu OK>spanner>screen set up>screen 2>Display settings. From here it is possible to configure what is shown and what is not.
    • I have switched the image being displayed after every shot as it was confusing especially when shown in the EVF. This is done Menu OK>spanner>screen setup>image display>off.
    • My camera locks occasionally and the green light blinks continually. It is annoying and all you can do is take the battery out and put it back in.
    • I was confused about manual focus. This is activated from the focus mode selector on the front of the camera on the right of the lens, by switching to M.
    • Shooting single and burst is on the drive dial on the top right of the camera.
    • A useful tool is the the auto focus distance indicator which is MenuOK>spanner>screen set up>screen 1. When shooting quickly it is useful to have an idea of the depth of field for a chosen aperture.
    • The quickest way to change the ISO is the quick menu button Q, scroll to ISO and change using the rear command wheel. I would have liked that on the front command wheel. Is that possible? Please let me know.



Camera Wrist Strap

I have avoided dropping my camera so many times using a simple inexpensive wrist strap like this one. Cameras and expensive lenses do not bounce!

UK

USA



Filed Under: Cameras, Fujifilm, Gear, Mirrorless Tagged With: Fuji Cameras

Copyright: John Gough 2022