iJourneys

John Gough Photography

Dougie Wallace Street Photographer

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I love the work of Dougie Wallace, here is a street photographer that works right on the edge.  This is a series of shots is from his project photographing stags and hens in Blackpool.

A rich seam he says is the kebab shop late at night.

This is from another project documenting the rich, in what he calls Harrodsburg.

Notice though how fast he moves, and how little time there is to get the shot.

I like his use of colour and flash.

Lastly a lot of us budding street photographers head to Shoreditch, the street art and the mix of people make it a great hunting ground.

However we don’t all get shots as good as these.


Respect.

Link to his web site.

Fujifilm XT20 Blurry and Out of Focus Shots

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I bought my Fujifilm XT20 a week or so ago, and I spent a couple of days testing, to see how I could work with it. I bought the Fuji XT20 as a small inconspicuous street camera, which meant that it had to focus fast to capture fleeting moments.  As can be seen the testing was not successful, something was wrong. About 30% of my images turned out this way. I had setup the camera according to the manual and online videos here. I had to assume either the lens or the camera were at fault, and got ready to return the camera to Wex Photographic. However because it is a bit of a drive to Norwich, I decided to do some research first. What I uncovered was that this issue is not uncommon with the X cameras, and the Fujifilm 18-55 lens. The forums were full of woe. How was it that all the reviewers thought this camera was brilliant, but lots of new users thought it was crap? The key was that the blurry pictures were usually from new users, which could mean that my XT20 setup was at fault. I spent a day researching and gradually changed the setup. The next day this picture was shot quickly from across the street. I was pleased to discover that it was sharp. I shot over 400 shots that day and nearly all were successful. How was it done?

My Notes on the Fujifilm XT20 Setup to Achieve Sharp Images.

These are my notes / instructions to myself, on the setup I have used to stop getting blurry images with the XT20:

Shoot Aperture Priority

This may seem counter intuitive, why not shoot shutter priority and select a high shutter speed that will ensure that there will be no motion blur? Shutter priority leaves control of the aperture to the camera. I lose creative control. I may want to blur the background with wide aperture. I may want to ensure there is sufficient depth of field so that all the people in a group are in focus. I may want to focus on a feature in a landscape. So long as I keep an eye on the shutter speed in the viewfinder, I should be able to control both.

AF-S

Set Focus Mode to single shots i.e. AF-S using the dial on the front of the camera. P78 in the manual. This will ensure that the camera will refocus before taking the next image when the shutter is pressed half way. NB S on the dial on the right of the camera. However if the subject is moving then switch to continuous. AF-C and CL or CH on the dial on the right of the camera.

Set High Enough ISO

I don’t trust the Fuji auto ISO to move up as the scene demands. Try it! So I set the ISO at around 640 to ensure that there is flexibility in aperture and shutter speed. Most cameras today can handle higher ISOs. Better a slightly grainy image, which can be recovered in post production, than a blurry one. Q>ISO>rear command dial.

Single Point AF Mode

There are three selectable Focus Modes. Zone and Wide Tracking are designed for moving objects, Single Point AF will however provide pin point control of the focus point if the subject is static. Menu/OK>AFMF>AF Mode>Single Point.

Select the Smallest Size Focus Point

The smaller the focus point the more accurately the camera can be shown exactly what to focus on. Menu/OK>AFMF>AF Mode>Single Point. Use the rear command wheel to select the smallest size a single sensor. P83 in the manual.

Control the Focus Point

Once the smallest focus point is selected, then to quickly move the focus point around the EVF (Electronic View Finder) or screen set the selector buttons around the Menu/OK button to move the focus point. Note that pressing the DISPBACK button will always return the focus point to the centre.  Menu/OK>Wrench>Selector Button Settings>Focus Area

Shutter AF On

To ensure you get what you see. Set the XT20 to lock the focus when the shutter is pressed half way. Menu/OK>Wrench>Selector Button Settings>Shutter AF>On

High Performance On

There is a power management setting that speeds up the auto focus, but it does drain the battery a little faster. However buy some spare batteries and go for sharper images. Menu/OK>Wrench>Power Management>Performance>High Performance.

Facial Recognition Off

Facial recognition is great for just that e.g. photographing the family in the back garden. However don’t leave it switched on or the auto focus will be hunting for faces in all scenes, and may override the chosen focus point. Menu/OK>AFMF>Face/Eye Detection Setting>Off.

AF+MF Off

AF+MF enables the manual focus (MF) to be used when the auto focus (AF) is being used. Just touching the MF dial accidentally while using the zoom could throw out the focus. .  NB if AF+MF is switched on the camera will shoot in Release Priority (see below) even if Focus Priority is on. Menu/OK>AFMF>AF+MF>Off

Focus Priority On

Release / Focus Priority:  This simple setting could be the cause of many out of focus images. Release prioritises the shutter over focusing. So the shutter can fire before focus is achieved. Focus priority ensures that focus is achieved before the camera will fire.  Menu/OK>AFMF>Release/Focus Priority>AF-S Priority Selection>Focus

IS Mode Shooting Only

As a default the image stabilisation is set to continuous which is good for movies, but can induce some shake on single images. Set to Shooting Only and the OIS is only engaged when the shutter is pressed half way. Menu/OK>Shooting Setting>IS Mode>Shooting Only

AF Beep On

The focus square will turn green if focus is achieved, but it is very useful to have additional confirmation of focus lock.  Menu/OK>Wrench>Sound Set-up>AF Beep Volume>Three on options

Check Focus On

If Focus Check is on, then pressing the rear command dial zooms the display to the focus point to confirm focus. A useful feature if the scene is busy. Menu/OK>AFMF>Focus Check>On

Pre-AF Off

With Pre AF on,  focusing will continue even if the shutter is pressed half way. To be in control of auto focus then Menu/OK>AFMF>Pre-AF>Off

OIS On

Check that the OIS image stabilisation is switched on.

Conclusion

Modern cameras are brilliant because they can be configured to cover a multitude of situations. This is my setup to get sharp images of people in the street. If you are into sport or wildlife photography your setup will be different, but be assured this is a good basic setup that will help you and the Fujifilm XT20 deliver sharp images. Try it, I hope it works for you.

Where I Buy

I buy my equipment from Wex because of their exceptional customer service. I once returned a camera after 30 days, and the next day they called to return my money to my account. Their prices are always competitive and they offer good prices on the trade in of your used gear

Camera Wrist Strap

I have avoided dropping my camera so many times using a simple inexpensive wrist strap like this one. Cameras and expensive lenses do not bounce! UK USA

Fujifilm XT20 Setup

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How to Setup the Fuji XT20

Getting a new camera can be daunting. I could not get my Fuji XT20 to work the way I wanted it at first because it was switched to Auto instead of a dot! I spent about an hour figuring out how to setup aperture priority which is the usual way I shoot.

There are some really useful videos on YouTube on how to setup the camera: Firstly Tony and Chelsea Northrop who seem to have a fantastic home and brilliant life travelling the world doing photography videos. They are worth watching though if you have not caught up with them yet. This video is an overview which is useful if you have just taken the camera out of the box:

 

 

Fuji Guys is a great channel for all things Fujifilm, this video is particularly useful as it goes into detail re the menu options, which is not easy to find in the manual.

 

 

Then there is Omar Gozalez who shoots mainly Canon (as do I), but is into the Fujifilm XT20 because it is small and fun to shoot with (as I am).

 

 

My Setup for Fuji XT20

These are my notes about the basic setup:

    • I may just shoot in P, ie Program mode most of the time as it is possible to adjust the aperture and shutter speed combinations using the rear command wheel, which is really useful.
    • The screen seemed too cluttered, so I have switched a lot of the icons off. This is done via Menu OK>spanner>screen set up>screen 2>Display settings. From here it is possible to configure what is shown and what is not.
    • I have switched the image being displayed after every shot as it was confusing especially when shown in the EVF. This is done Menu OK>spanner>screen setup>image display>off.
    • My camera locks occasionally and the green light blinks continually. It is annoying and all you can do is take the battery out and put it back in.
    • I was confused about manual focus. This is activated from the focus mode selector on the front of the camera on the right of the lens, by switching to M.
    • Shooting single and burst is on the drive dial on the top right of the camera.
    • A useful tool is the the auto focus distance indicator which is MenuOK>spanner>screen set up>screen 1. When shooting quickly it is useful to have an idea of the depth of field for a chosen aperture.
    • The quickest way to change the ISO is the quick menu button Q, scroll to ISO and change using the rear command wheel. I would have liked that on the front command wheel. Is that possible? Please let me know.



Camera Wrist Strap

I have avoided dropping my camera so many times using a simple inexpensive wrist strap like this one. Cameras and expensive lenses do not bounce!

UK

USA



What is Street Photography?

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Street Photography

I have always defined street photography as ‘taking pictures of strangers’, but I was interested how others defined it. These are my notes:

Street photography, also sometimes called candidphotography, is photography conducted for art or enquiry that features unmediated chance encounters and random incidents within public places. Wikipedia

The definition of Street Photography is actually extremely vague. The most accepted “term” states that it is a conducted art that features unmediated and randomness in public places. Something like “serendipity,” so to speak. phototraces.com

‘the decisive moment’, ‘when form and content, vision and composition merged into a transcendent whole’, Cartier-Bresson 

‘When I’m photographing I see life. That’s what I deal with’ Garry Winogrand

‘To me, photography is an art of observation. It’s about finding something interesting in an ordinary place…it has little to do with the things you see and everything to do with the way you see them’. Elliott Erwitt

‘Seeing, looking at what others cannot bear to see is what my life is all about’. Don McCullin

‘To me, street photography is just documenting human life. Period. Candid or with permission? I don’t care. Colour or black and white? It doesn’t matter. Street photography is about capturing the essence of humanity’. Imran Sahid

What is street photography? You don’t need a dictionary to define it. Study the work of Henri Cartier-Bresson, Andre Kertesz, David Seymour (Chim), Robert Doisneau, Willy Ronis, Brassai, Walker Evans, Elliott Erwitt, Mark Riboud, Garry Winogrand, Helen Levitt and Robert Frank, who are only a few of the masters of street, and you’ll have a much better appreciation for what street photography is than words can give you. The Luminous Landscape

This particular genre of fine photography is probably best explained as an opportunistic moment in which a photographer captures a candid public scene in front of him. …. – in order for a street photo to be genuine, it has to feature an unposed situation within a public place, regardless of where that place may be.  Openwallsgallery.com

Now I understand that ‘Street Photography’ is just ‘Photography’ in its simplest form, it is the medium itself, it is actually all the other forms of photography that need defining, landscape, fashion, portrait, reportage, art, advertising….these are all complicating additions to the medium of Photography, they are the areas that need to be defined, ring fenced and partitioned out of the medium of ‘Street Photography’. Nick Turpin

There is nothing more inspirational and satisfying that a day on the streets with your camera. The definition of Street Photography has many different interpretations depending on what photographer you speak to. Personally, I like to take the simple approach and don’t like to curtail my picture taking in any way. To me if I take a picture on the street or any urban environment then it is street photography; this will include urban landscape, candid shots of people, portraits and still life. Ronnie Cairns

A recent article in the Huffington Post was entitled, ’Street Photography Has No Clothes’. As the author clearly intended, it sparked a lot of controversy. In it, he decried the lumping together in one category, of the work of time-honoured masters with the ‘hundreds of thousands of dull, hackneyed candid images of random strangers by hopeless photographers.  olafwilloughby.com 

I met an old friend the other day who I had not seen for years. He asked what was I doing. I told him that I was into street photography.

‘Does that mean you are a nosy parker’, he replied.

I guess that about sums it up.

Does Persistence beat Creativity to Better Photography

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John Gough

Does persistence beat creativity in the journey to be a better photographer. I guess you need a helping of both, but  how do we find our own voice and some originality. These are my notes.

Persistence

This year the number of photographs taken will top over 1.3 trillion. Plus it is growing exponentially. Serious photographers share a phenomenal 350,000 pictures each day on Flickr. How can we ever take pictures that stand out from this enormous crowd.

Trying to be different is not the way according to Finnish-American photographer Arno Minkkinen.  Instead the secret to creativity in photography, lies in understanding the operations of Helsinki’s main bus station!

This article in the Guardian explains it all. 

Creativity

What he is saying is follow a well trodden path, until you feel you can confidently branch out to be yourself.

This sort of makes sense. If you have read Malcolm Gladwell’s book: Outliers, success he maintains comes with commitment. Bill Gates had access to the mainframe computer at the University of Washington, which was just across the street from his high school. He spent many hours there computer programming.  Gladwell has estimated that it requires 10,000 hours spent doing one thing, to build up sufficient expertise to really move on and be successful. He also acknowledges that it also requires a bit of luck.

Arno Minkkinen is kind of saying the same thing, stick in the groove and eventually hard work and persistence leads to creativity.

So what does that mean for us photographers. Well my back of a fag packet calculation puts it at about 50,000 images.

Five Tips for the LRPS

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The LRPS or Licentiate of The Royal Photographic Society is an internationally recognised photography qualification. The RPS has three levels of distinction: Licentiate, Associate and Fellow, and although the LRPS is the entry level qualification it is not easy to achieve and to quote the RPS, “requires images of a high standard of photographic execution”.

You will need to put ten images together, which are different and technically excellent. Different not necessarily in subject matter but in approach, showing different techniques e.g landscape, macro, movement, shallow depth of field etc.

When the ten images are ready, send or take them either as PDIs or prints to an assessment day, where they will be judged by a panel of top photographers. All the details are on the RPS site

Here are five top tips for success:

1 LRPS Advisory Day

Go to a LRPS Advisory Day where the ten images can be critiqued by the judges that actually do the assessments. It may be daunting to have your work discussed in front of an audience, but what is blindingly obvious to them, you may not have noticed or thought it important. Whether it be sharpness, blown highlights, lack of detail in shadows etc they will spot it. You will get good advice on whether your panel of images is ready for submission to be assessed, or what work you have to do to achieve that.

2 Technical Excellence is the LRPS Secret

The judges are not looking for beautiful outstanding photographs, they are looking for technically perfect images. Yes, the composition must be reasonable, and there should be no lamp posts growing out of people’s heads. Have a look at the LRPS distinction successes online for the level of technical competence required.

3 Print or PDI

I am told on good authority that more people pass with prints than with PDI’s (screen images). This is because the judging panel can view the images as a whole rather than individually. When the images are judged, the prints will usually be arranged in two rows of five prints. It is up to you to number your prints and provide a hanging plan showing how the prints are to be arranged.

4 Hanging Plan Tricks

Put your best images in the centre of the rows at positions 3 and 8. Then try to balance 2&4 and 7&9. At the end of the row the image should stop the eye and bring the gaze back to the panel of images. Judges maintain that the images hung together like this make up the 11th image. See my effort here. 

5 Your Favourite Pics

You may have a fantastic image of New York at night, but unless it is flawless technically try to resist the urge to include your favourite images in the panel. Try to avoid any technical issue, a picture of a bike shed that is in focus and processed correctly is going to tick the box better than a fuzzy but stunning shot of crocodiles attacking wildebeest on the Masai Mara. My advice is to setup a project to take technically supreme pictures. They must be interesting, show a varied approach and have no technical flaws. When you have twenty try to arrange into a hanging plan. If it looks right then it probably is right, and time to book that advisory day.

Where to Buy Your Equipment

I buy my equipment from Wex because of their exceptional customer service. I once returned a camera after 30 days, and the next day they called to return my money to my account. Their prices are always competitive and they offer good prices on the trade in of your used gear

Canon EOS M3 Review

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I thought I would explore mirrorless cameras. Will they take over from DSLRs or are they just a jumped up compact camera?

I chose the Canon EOS M3 because it was on offer at a great price at Amazon and these are my notes. I am doing a lot of street photography and I wanted a camera that was discrete, and which I could use without raising it to my eye. The EOS M3 fitted the bill with its neat articulated screen. The camera is also so small that it is lot less noticeable than a big DSLR.

How did I get on.

  • The 24MP APS-C CMOS sensor coupled with the EF-M 15-45 zoom lens capture excellent detail, as can be seen from the image above. Especially considering there has been some of cropping involved.
  • A big plus is that there is an adapter that joins the camera to your big DSLR lenses so your investment in Canon glass is safe.
  • The handling is easy, it is smaller than a DSLR but bigger than many of the compact cameras we have all used, so it’s size is not as big a deal as many commentators make out. I did not miss the viewfinder, although an external EVF (Electronic Viewfinder) can be bought separately which clips onto the hot shoe.
  • I have big hands and the camera felt comfortable. The build quality is good and the grip was nicely proportioned.
  • I loved the flippy screen, which articulates to 180 degrees. OK not much can be made out in strong sunshine, but it is convenient and covert enough for street photography.
  • There has been criticism of the battery life, but I think that must be when used for video, I had no issues on a photographic shoot.
  • Autofocus is an issue. Reviews complain that it is too slow. My reservation is about the inconsistency and accuracy. Often a shot would be brilliantly in focus, and then another would be off. Perhaps it was the complexity of a street scene, but even when I used the touch control on the screen it often did not pick up the focus zone.
  • Another issue is the small buffer when shooting continuously in RAW, the camera almost starts to pant with exhaustion after a few shots.
  • It is a bit unfair because the sensor is getting a bit long in the tooth, but the dynamic range is challenging. Digging for detail in RAW that just is not there in post processing.

So what is the conclusion? I like cameras this size and weight that can produce fabulous images just like those from a good DSLR. So I want to explore going mirrorless. My issue with the Canon EOS M3 is that it is inconsistent. I cannot guarantee good results in the quickfire arena that is street photography. However, if you are thinking of buying a good walkabout camera to record family and events, forget those little compact cameras with their small sensors and lenses and instead look no further. For less than £500 it is a steal.

 

Where to Buy Your Equipment

I buy my equipment from Wex because of their exceptional customer service. I once returned a camera after 30 days, and the next day they called to return my money to my account. Their prices are always competitive and they offer good prices on the trade in of your used gear.