iJourneys

John Gough Photography

Fujifilm X-T3 Real View

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Fujifilm X-T3

The Fujifilm X-T3 has been well received, it is high spec and comes with a strong pedigree stretching back to the X-T1. If you are researching which camera to buy next. How do you decide? All cameras today take amazing images. So if that is a given, what else should drive the decision?  We look at the good the bad and the ugly of the Fujifilm X-T3. We ask and we answer, ‘Would I buy one’.

Fujifilm X-T3: The Ugly

Let’s be frank Fujifilm cameras are Marmite. Some love the retro old world styling with lots of knobs and knurly bits, whilst others prefer a set of shambolic menu options you get on a Sony for example.  The Fuji is however small, so fiddling with those small dials with big hands can be awkward.

It comes down to aesthetics, but what is under that retro styling is some red hot technology so let us look at the Good, which includes that impressive specification.

Fujifilm X-T3: The Good

Spec

  • New back-illuminated 26.1MP X-Trans CMOS 4 APS-C sensor
  • New X-Processor 4 image processing engine
  • AF performance is one and half times faster with substantially enhanced performance in face/eye detection AF thanks to 2.16M phase detection pixels arrayed at entire frame.
  • ISO160-12800 (extendable from ISO 80 to 51200)
  • 30 fps continuous shooting in 1.25x crop ‘Sports Finder’ mode (electronic shutter)
  • 20 fps continuous shooting at full resolution with AF (electronic shutter); 11 fps mechanical shutter (without grip)
  • 3.69m dot high resolution EVF
  • 3.0″ 1.04m dot 3-directional tilting touchscreen LCD monitor
  • Tough magnesium-alloy body is sealed against dust and moisture
  • Dual SD card slots
  • Video: 4K/60P 4:2:0 10bit internal SD card recording
  • Video: Full HD 1080/120p slow motion recording

Reviews

This camera has had some excellent reviews. DPReview gave it 88% and a gold award. Amateur Photographer gave 5 stars. Digital Camera World also gave 5 stars. Really it does not get much better than that.

Support

Don’t forget the amazing support and events available through Fujiholics. Almost worth buying the camera just to join.

Price

Much has been made of the launch of Nikon and Canon full frame mirrorless cameras. These cameras are both north of £2200 compared to £1299 for the Fuji. Does FF still have the same kudos, with the advent of new APS-C sensors?  How much more do you get with an FF sensor vs this sensor? We will have to wait for the DXO comparisons. However, if you want a heavy expensive camera with very expensive glass go Canon or Nikon.

Firmware Updates

Fujifilm says firmware updates for the X-T3, are imminent, with plenty of new features and functionality to boot. This is a plus feature for Fujifilm who have been always quick to update and upgrade camera software.

Fujifilm X-T3: The Bad

Stabilisation

There is no IBIS, despite the introduction of IBIS on the Fujifilm X-H1 which has 5.5 stops of 5 axis in body image stabilisation. It is an unfortunate ommission because IBIS is almost standard these days.

The Elephant in the Room

Fujifilm RAW files in the past have tended to develop wormy artefacts in images processed in Lightroom. This was caused by the X-Trans sensor. Some reviewers claim that this still persists in the X-T3 here for example. The workaround is to use a processing software like Capture One.

The Good the Bad and the Ugly

It is always hard to ignore an elephant in the room, but we have scoured the reviews and the forums and there is very little evidence from users of waxy worms in their photographs.

The reviews are hot, the price is even hotter and you get a spec that beats the rest. So on paper, it is a winner. Would I buy one?

Fujifilm X-T3: Would I Buy One?

  • I have an established post processing workflow which includes Lightroom. I would not like to have to incorporate Capture One just to process Fujifilm RAW files.
  • With my street photography, it is often necessary to grab a shot in an instant. When I do so my photographs can be ruined by camera shake. My next camera must have IBIS

So would I buy one? No.

 

Where I Buy

I buy my equipment from Wex because of their exceptional customer service. I once returned a camera after 30 days, and the next day they called to return my money to my account. Their prices are always competitive and they offer good prices on the trade in of your used gear



Fujifilm X-H1 Review of Reviews

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Fujifilm X-H1

Fujifilm X-H1

Fujifilm X-H1 is the H for hype or does this camera live up to its billing? We trawl the reviews and forums to try and get a balanced view on the Fujifilm X-H1 as a stills camera.

Already a fracas has broken out. If you dare to criticise a Fujifilm camera then be prepared for a kickback. Their users are the most loyal in the world. However,  YouTube photography supremo, Tony Northrop challenged the Fuji orthodoxy by claiming that the full frame sensor on the Sony a7III had two times the image quality of the Fujifilm X-H1 sensor. We know what he meant but……

However, Northrop hit back:

So what is the point? Well, it reflects a disappointment that this camera was probably not the camera Fuji enthusiasts were dreaming of. Why? Let’s look at the camera in more detail.

Fujifilm X-H1 Specification

  • 24.3-million-pixel X-Trans APS-C CMOS III sensor
  • 5 axis in-body image stabilization: IBIS
  • 3in, 1.04m-dot tilt screen
  • Tiltable touch sensitive LCD
  • ISO 200-12,800 (expandable to ISO 100-51,200)
  • Continuous shooting up to 14fps
  • Two card slots
  • 673g body only, including battery and memory card. 166g heavier than the XT2
  • 310 shot NP-W126S Li-ion battery
  • Wi-Fi with Bluetooth
  • Optional VPB-XH1 battery grip
  • 139.8×97.3×85.5mm (WxHxD)
  • 25% tougher weather-resistant body
  • Silent electronic shutter with a maximum speed of 1/32,000 sec,
  • 91 auto-focus points (expandable to 325)
  • A sub LCD monitor on the top plate
  • 4K capture at up to 200 Mbps

Fujifilm X-H1: DPReview Review

The DPReview review awards the camera a sliver award, because the camera although worthy does not excel in any respect:

  • The size and weight of the camera has been increased over the XT2 because of the addition of IBIS and the thermal cooling required for long bursts of 4K video
  • The settings for stills and video can remain separate, enabling easy swapping between modes.
  • There is a dynamic range priority setting which can assist in drawing detail out of shadows.
  • The magnesium alloy body is 25% thicker and the surface hardness has been increased to improve durability.
  • The top plate LCD panel stays on even when the camera is switched off and can be configured to only show vital information.
  • The weather sealing has been improved and the camera can function at -10C.
  • The 310 shot battery should last half a day of dedicated photography
  • Need to fine tune the AF behaviour to get sharp results
  • Face detection performance is good but variable depending on the lens.
  • Low light AF is said to be improved
  • AF works best in the phase detection area at the centre of the sensor
  • The 5x IBIS is not consistent across all lenses. Expect about 2x with wide angle lenses and 3,3 with telephoto.
  • An excellent JPEG engine with excellent creative colour modes
  • Slight ‘glitching’ in fine colour detail in RAW but overall low noise levels are low and detail acceptable.
  • The touchscreen can be slow to respond

 I’m not sure the number and style of control points necessarily reflects the needs of the user interface, now it’s trying to accommodate both stills and video

the X-H1 [is] up against some pretty fierce competition: Sony, for example, offers the broadly comparable a6500 for less money or the impressive-looking full-frame a7 III for only a little more.

Fujifilm X-H1: Cameralabs

Cameralabs provide one of the most detailed reviews available, here are the bits I found interesting:

  • Could be described as an XT2 with IBIS, a touchscreen, bigger grip, better video and Bluetooth
  • One of the heftiest mirrorless cameras
  • It is stronger mare scratch resistant and has 94 points of weather sealing
  • The display remains active when the camera is switched off, indicating at a glance the shots and battery life remaining.
  • Some glasses wearers prefer the viewfinder to the XT2
  • It is possible to record stills to both cards but not video
  • The X-Trans III sensor is the same as in the XT2 and is now two years old.
  • Vertical Power Booster (VPB X-H1) makes room for three batteries but adds to cost and bulk.
  • Unstabilised lenses become usable due to the IBIS. Plus the IBIS make in camera composition easier with telescopic and other lenses.
  • The phase detect and contrast based autofocus systems are the same as the XT2 and therefore perform similarly. However, it has been tweaked to work better in low light.
  • Face detection and eye detection can be erratic

I say it in every Fujifilm review, but still believe they have the best colour science in the industry.

I understand Fujifilm’s eagerness to launch their first body with built-in stabilisation, but feel the X-H1’s size, price and position would have been more comfortable with a new sensor and battery.

Fujifilm X-H1: Kai W

If you want to see the weather sealing qualities check this out:

 

Fujifilm X-H1: Fstoppers

Usman Daywood in the Fstoppers review calls this a disappointing release from Fujifilm.

  • Comments online wonder where this product fits and when there will be a replacement for the XT2
  • Major changes over XT2 re stills photography are an information top plate, IBIS and touchscreen

The Fujifilm X-H1 is a disappointing and confusing release from the company which is very unlike them. This feels rushed and completely unnecessary, and it would have been much better to simply wait and release a proper update the X-T2. 

 

Fujifilm X-H1: Digital Camera Weekly

A very positive review from Digital Camera Weekly

  • The light trigger shutter takes getting used to. Very little pressure is needed.
  • The shutter is very quiet due to a clever shock damping on the mechanical focal plane shutter
  • The deep grip makes the camera easy to hold especially with larger lenses
  • The IBIS enables sharp images to be taken handheld at 1/8 sec at 55mm.
  • The expanded dynamic range feature lifts the base ISO level by 1-2EV.
  • Fujifilm includes lens corrections into the RAW files as well as JPEG processing.

the X-H1 makes a lot of sense, especially for those who have already invested in the X-mount system or are swayed by its design, image quality and lenses. 

Fujifilm X-H1: Photography Blog

Another positive review from Photography Blog

  • The lens mount is reinforced to be more damage resistant.
  • It is very convenient to be able to check the camera’s key settings with a quick glance at the top LCD
  • It is possible to change the focus point whilst holding the camera up to your eye by dragging your thumb across the touchscreen.

While the new Fujifilm X-H1 is the best-specced, best-performing X-series camera to date, curiously we feel that it doesn’t quite have the widest appeal, both within the Fujifilm eco-system and the camera market as a whole.

So what Fujifilm have mostly added, they’ve perhaps also taken a little away, with the addition of IBIS, bigger handgrip and top LCD screen making the X-H1 the largest X-series APS-C camera to date.

it’s not the only camera that’s being directly challenged by the aggressive pricing of the A7 III, but when the APS-C sensor X-H1 is physically bigger than the full-frame sensor A7 III at the same price-point (if you factor in the VPB-XH1), Sony seem to have the edge, at the very least in marketing terms.

Fujifilm X-H1: Conclusion

When I first handled the X-H1 I was surprised at how bulky it was. I was disappointed that the retro feel of Fujifilm cameras had been jettisoned. However, it may just be a function of progress as mirrorless cameras take on more features and technology. However, I wonder whether Fujifilm had an inkling that Sony was about to release a ball buster in the Sony A7III, and rushed to release the X-H1 without properly resolving battery and other issues.

Where to Buy

I buy my equipment from Wex because I have found they offer great customer service.

 

 

Fujifilm X-Trans Sensor Problems

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I just wanted to add to the debate about the Fujifilm X-Trans sensor which is the APSC sensor used in Fujifilm X series cameras like the XT2, XT20 and XPro2.

The debate which rages on countless forums, centres around the artefacts that can be found on RAW files after they have been processed in Lightroom. Photographers claim that there can be worm like backgrounds and smeary images on high ISO images. Other Fuji users claim never to have come across this problem. Well I did.

Examples of X-Trans Sensor Problems

Here are a couple of examples shown at high magnification taken on a Fuji XT20 at just ISO640.

X-Trans

X-Trans Sensor Worms

 

X-Trans

X-Trans Smears

Although the sensor is claimed to be 24 MP, and that size of sensor should be able to create up to a c’3′ x 2′ print. I would not like to rely on it if details like these were  evident. Therefore creating fine art prints with this camera is not going to be possible.

The Technicalities: Fuji X-Trans Sensor

To understand the technicalities of why this is. Then refer to this excellent article.

X-Trans: The Promise and the Problem

 

Conclusion

The answer to the problem many people argue in forums is not to process Fujifim X-Trans images in Lightroom, users suggest instead to use  Capture One. Surely however, there is something seriously wrong when one of the world’s most popular cameras, can not use the world’s most popular processing engine and workflow.

 

Where to Buy Your Equipment

I buy my equipment from Wex because of their exceptional customer service. I once returned a camera after 30 days, and the next day they called to return my money to my account. Their prices are always competitive and they offer good prices on the trade in of your used gear

 

Fujifilm XT20 Blurry and Out of Focus Shots

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I bought my Fujifilm XT20 a week or so ago, and I spent a couple of days testing, to see how I could work with it. I bought the Fuji XT20 as a small inconspicuous street camera, which meant that it had to focus fast to capture fleeting moments.  As can be seen the testing was not successful, something was wrong. About 30% of my images turned out this way. I had setup the camera according to the manual and online videos here. I had to assume either the lens or the camera were at fault, and got ready to return the camera to Wex Photographic. However because it is a bit of a drive to Norwich, I decided to do some research first. What I uncovered was that this issue is not uncommon with the X cameras, and the Fujifilm 18-55 lens. The forums were full of woe. How was it that all the reviewers thought this camera was brilliant, but lots of new users thought it was crap? The key was that the blurry pictures were usually from new users, which could mean that my XT20 setup was at fault. I spent a day researching and gradually changed the setup. The next day this picture was shot quickly from across the street. I was pleased to discover that it was sharp. I shot over 400 shots that day and nearly all were successful. How was it done?

My Notes on the Fujifilm XT20 Setup to Achieve Sharp Images.

These are my notes / instructions to myself, on the setup I have used to stop getting blurry images with the XT20:

Shoot Aperture Priority

This may seem counter intuitive, why not shoot shutter priority and select a high shutter speed that will ensure that there will be no motion blur? Shutter priority leaves control of the aperture to the camera. I lose creative control. I may want to blur the background with wide aperture. I may want to ensure there is sufficient depth of field so that all the people in a group are in focus. I may want to focus on a feature in a landscape. So long as I keep an eye on the shutter speed in the viewfinder, I should be able to control both.

AF-S

Set Focus Mode to single shots i.e. AF-S using the dial on the front of the camera. P78 in the manual. This will ensure that the camera will refocus before taking the next image when the shutter is pressed half way. NB S on the dial on the right of the camera. However if the subject is moving then switch to continuous. AF-C and CL or CH on the dial on the right of the camera.

Set High Enough ISO

I don’t trust the Fuji auto ISO to move up as the scene demands. Try it! So I set the ISO at around 640 to ensure that there is flexibility in aperture and shutter speed. Most cameras today can handle higher ISOs. Better a slightly grainy image, which can be recovered in post production, than a blurry one. Q>ISO>rear command dial.

Single Point AF Mode

There are three selectable Focus Modes. Zone and Wide Tracking are designed for moving objects, Single Point AF will however provide pin point control of the focus point if the subject is static. Menu/OK>AFMF>AF Mode>Single Point.

Select the Smallest Size Focus Point

The smaller the focus point the more accurately the camera can be shown exactly what to focus on. Menu/OK>AFMF>AF Mode>Single Point. Use the rear command wheel to select the smallest size a single sensor. P83 in the manual.

Control the Focus Point

Once the smallest focus point is selected, then to quickly move the focus point around the EVF (Electronic View Finder) or screen set the selector buttons around the Menu/OK button to move the focus point. Note that pressing the DISPBACK button will always return the focus point to the centre.  Menu/OK>Wrench>Selector Button Settings>Focus Area

Shutter AF On

To ensure you get what you see. Set the XT20 to lock the focus when the shutter is pressed half way. Menu/OK>Wrench>Selector Button Settings>Shutter AF>On

High Performance On

There is a power management setting that speeds up the auto focus, but it does drain the battery a little faster. However buy some spare batteries and go for sharper images. Menu/OK>Wrench>Power Management>Performance>High Performance.

Facial Recognition Off

Facial recognition is great for just that e.g. photographing the family in the back garden. However don’t leave it switched on or the auto focus will be hunting for faces in all scenes, and may override the chosen focus point. Menu/OK>AFMF>Face/Eye Detection Setting>Off.

AF+MF Off

AF+MF enables the manual focus (MF) to be used when the auto focus (AF) is being used. Just touching the MF dial accidentally while using the zoom could throw out the focus. .  NB if AF+MF is switched on the camera will shoot in Release Priority (see below) even if Focus Priority is on. Menu/OK>AFMF>AF+MF>Off

Focus Priority On

Release / Focus Priority:  This simple setting could be the cause of many out of focus images. Release prioritises the shutter over focusing. So the shutter can fire before focus is achieved. Focus priority ensures that focus is achieved before the camera will fire.  Menu/OK>AFMF>Release/Focus Priority>AF-S Priority Selection>Focus

IS Mode Shooting Only

As a default the image stabilisation is set to continuous which is good for movies, but can induce some shake on single images. Set to Shooting Only and the OIS is only engaged when the shutter is pressed half way. Menu/OK>Shooting Setting>IS Mode>Shooting Only

AF Beep On

The focus square will turn green if focus is achieved, but it is very useful to have additional confirmation of focus lock.  Menu/OK>Wrench>Sound Set-up>AF Beep Volume>Three on options

Check Focus On

If Focus Check is on, then pressing the rear command dial zooms the display to the focus point to confirm focus. A useful feature if the scene is busy. Menu/OK>AFMF>Focus Check>On

Pre-AF Off

With Pre AF on,  focusing will continue even if the shutter is pressed half way. To be in control of auto focus then Menu/OK>AFMF>Pre-AF>Off

OIS On

Check that the OIS image stabilisation is switched on.

Conclusion

Modern cameras are brilliant because they can be configured to cover a multitude of situations. This is my setup to get sharp images of people in the street. If you are into sport or wildlife photography your setup will be different, but be assured this is a good basic setup that will help you and the Fujifilm XT20 deliver sharp images. Try it, I hope it works for you.

Where I Buy

I buy my equipment from Wex because of their exceptional customer service. I once returned a camera after 30 days, and the next day they called to return my money to my account. Their prices are always competitive and they offer good prices on the trade in of your used gear

Camera Wrist Strap

I have avoided dropping my camera so many times using a simple inexpensive wrist strap like this one. Cameras and expensive lenses do not bounce! UK USA

Fujifilm XT20 Setup

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How to Setup the Fuji XT20

Getting a new camera can be daunting. I could not get my Fuji XT20 to work the way I wanted it at first because it was switched to Auto instead of a dot! I spent about an hour figuring out how to setup aperture priority which is the usual way I shoot.

There are some really useful videos on YouTube on how to setup the camera: Firstly Tony and Chelsea Northrop who seem to have a fantastic home and brilliant life travelling the world doing photography videos. They are worth watching though if you have not caught up with them yet. This video is an overview which is useful if you have just taken the camera out of the box:

 

 

Fuji Guys is a great channel for all things Fujifilm, this video is particularly useful as it goes into detail re the menu options, which is not easy to find in the manual.

 

 

Then there is Omar Gozalez who shoots mainly Canon (as do I), but is into the Fujifilm XT20 because it is small and fun to shoot with (as I am).

 

 

My Setup for Fuji XT20

These are my notes about the basic setup:

    • I may just shoot in P, ie Program mode most of the time as it is possible to adjust the aperture and shutter speed combinations using the rear command wheel, which is really useful.
    • The screen seemed too cluttered, so I have switched a lot of the icons off. This is done via Menu OK>spanner>screen set up>screen 2>Display settings. From here it is possible to configure what is shown and what is not.
    • I have switched the image being displayed after every shot as it was confusing especially when shown in the EVF. This is done Menu OK>spanner>screen setup>image display>off.
    • My camera locks occasionally and the green light blinks continually. It is annoying and all you can do is take the battery out and put it back in.
    • I was confused about manual focus. This is activated from the focus mode selector on the front of the camera on the right of the lens, by switching to M.
    • Shooting single and burst is on the drive dial on the top right of the camera.
    • A useful tool is the the auto focus distance indicator which is MenuOK>spanner>screen set up>screen 1. When shooting quickly it is useful to have an idea of the depth of field for a chosen aperture.
    • The quickest way to change the ISO is the quick menu button Q, scroll to ISO and change using the rear command wheel. I would have liked that on the front command wheel. Is that possible? Please let me know.



Camera Wrist Strap

I have avoided dropping my camera so many times using a simple inexpensive wrist strap like this one. Cameras and expensive lenses do not bounce!

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